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There’s bound to be a demonstration of one kind or another here (including, in November, the spectacular Gay Pride Parade). Located at the center of the Microcentro (downtown) district, it’s a good place to begin getting a feel for this dynamic metropolis. We’ll start at the heart of Buenos Aires: Plaza de Mayo. Gay marriage, for instance, is legal here, as it is throughout Argentina: would you have expected this in the heart of South America? That’s Buenos Aires, though, with something always coming at you out of the blue to surprise and delight you with the insouciance of a tango dancer.
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These contradictions can take some work to reconcile, and just when you think you have a handle on the city, something changes your entire outlook. There’s an unmistakable urban buzz here, but also peaceful, leafy neighborhoods, a non-stop quality to life, and also a take-it-easy attitude. The only way to properly explore Buenos Aires, to get a grip on this intimidating and loveable city, is to approach the trees rather than the forest, and get to know each neighborhood before trying to fit the whole puzzle together.
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With an enviable coffeehouse culture, a collection of lovely restaurants, and some surprisingly calm areas amid the bustle, there’s always time to refresh and renew among the chaos. You’ll find plenty of places, though, to relax and take it easy. I could never list all the neighborhoods, so we’ll concentrate on my favorites.īuenos Aires takes some energy to explore, as it’s spread out, with a semi-workable subway system (I’d suggest a taxi or your own two feet for most explorations) and a frenetic pace that will keep you on your toes.
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The thing is, they’re all part of Buenos Aires, for this major metropolis feels more than anywhere I’ve been like a series of small towns in one, loosely connected to form a big city that’s exciting, dynamic, a little daunting, and incredibly satisfying. They’re all very different in atmosphere and appearance, and to visit these various places feels like you’ve taken a whole series of trips. I’m going to take you on a tour of several places, places with names like Recoleta, San Telmo, Palermo, and La Boca.